Sadly, the time came to leave Solomon’s Island. I untied the lines and we departed. I loved it there! The marina was my favorite so far!! If we want to get this loop done in a year we had to move on.
Cambridge MD
May 22nd
We pulled into the marina and we were all alone. There were boats around but no one in the area we went. It was basically a park. The back of the boat was along a wall and people walked by and a few stopped to stare at the “large boat” amongst only small boats and mostly sailboats. I watched from inside our tinted windows as people stopped and looked at us. I felt like a fish out of water here. Plus, we had just left the most awesome spot. Oh well……..
Just us!
There is no better way to see a town then on a bike. We got ours down and cruised to find some lunch. This was another town brick streets and very old historic homes. The Chesapeake is rich in history, slavery and boating. I love riding down these streets and imagine the many lives that have occupied these homes. I also love the archecture and charm. The homes are all different, unlike the cookie cutter homes I’m used to in California. I can imagine restoring one. These little towns are sleepy though and I’m not sure I could handle that!
We planned on a few days here but we pretty much saw all there was in an afternoon. I called St. Michaels to see if we could come a day early and they could accommodate us. The catch was the weather, the wind and swell were going to be bad. We had to make the decision stay put or suck it up. When people say the Chesapeake is no joke, they are not lying. We had a REALLY rough section of this trip. BIG waves that crashed over the top of the boat. Andy drove from inside and I stayed quiet as my heart beat out of my chest. We didn’t have far to go and as soon as we could make the turn to go up the river towards St. Michaels it would be behind us and much more comfortable. We were concentrated on the route and hitting the waves at the right angle and out of nowhere, and NOT on our charts these poles appeared, as well as a ton of crab pots. WHAT THE HELL!!!
We learned later after looking these up that they are fish traps. On a flat day you can see them. In a rough sea these come out of no where.So happy to have the comfort of the pilot house on days like these.
St. Michaels, MD
May 23-25th
We pulled in relieved and happy to see the marina. It was a resort. Back in style! Happy dance!!! We washed the salt off the boat and took the bikes to get lunch. Riding again to explore and see what this town looked like. It was more of a weekend retreat town with people coming from Annapolis. The town had rows of small bungalow style homes, again all my style. Charming. We found an outdoor bar/grill and we DRANK!!! So thankful to be here and safe. We recuperated and relaxed.
St. Micheals is on my list! I absolutely LOVED this town. We will be revisiting this one. I could imagine a little old home restored and a little boutique on the main street visiting with people. It had a cool vibe. I can picture Andy sailing the river in a little day sailboat. We took a ride on an original wood boat called the Selina II. She was captained by the granddaughter of the original owner who built her 93 years ago. She was a very enthusiastic captain of this beautiful restored wood boat that she had inherited.
This town has the biggest Maritime museum of The Chesapeake. It had a real time working boathouse for making wood boats today. It had another screwpile lighthouse and a large display of wood boats dating back to the 1800’s. We spent hours walking the property.
Another reason I loved this town was this great shop in the towns old mill, full of vintage old pieces of architecture and pieces from old homes. I wanted everything. Next door was a nautical themed version and had the coolest style of furniture. Furniture and vintage old chippy wood is my passion. I could just sit in this store all day. The history of the old doors and columns and just old junk feeds my soul. I don’t know how to explain the feeling I get when I am around such old stuff but I love the energy of it all. The mix of these old pieces with the nautical modern is just perfect!!! I appreciate repurposing these great things.
Later that day, we were sitting on the boat when we saw this big black cloud headed our way. It dumped rain like a bucket splashing the boat in an aggressive manor. As fast as it came, it went by, then normal rain happened for a while before the clouds parted and we were graced by a huge sunset. The expression “if you don’t like the weather, wait 5 minutes” is so true in this part of the world. Crazy!!
This is the general Route or suggested routes. Our plan is: Norfolk, Deltaville, Solomon’s, Cambridge, St. Micheals, Annapolis, Baltimore, Chesapeake City, and Cape May! We expect this to be weeks of travel, maybe even a month or so depending on the weather. I will be writing it in sections as we go. This Chesapeake is a big portion of the Great Loop.
Norfolk at Tidewater Marina
May 12-15
Its official!! We have finished the ICW. We are now in the Chesapeake. This will be a whole new game. Hello Norfolk!! This is where it all started for me. We attended a meeting for the AGLCA (Americas Great Loopers Cruisers Association) last May. It was the deciding factor for me, If I was “On Board” or not. Obviously, you know the outcome!
Navy shipyards dot the harbor and you really feel the military presence here.
After our incredible adventure in The Dismal Swamp, we arrived at our dock in Norfolk. When we pulled in we noticed a bunch of looper flags flying, at least 20 boats. The AGLCA Rendezvous (we attended last year) had just ended and people were still lingering around. The marina had a tent set up and Loopers gathered at 5’ O’clock with red cups in hand. We met a ton of people and exchanged boat cards. I felt so happy to be with this group of fellow travelers/wanderers/adventure seekers/explorers. It was fun to hear their personal stories, where they were from, how far they had traveled, where they were headed. A bunch of boats had already gone a long way and some were like us, just getting our feet wet. Although we did the math and realized we have traveled 1000 miles at this point. That’s seems unreal because we feel like we are just getting into a groove. I don’t think we actually qualify as “new” anymore.
We were in Norfolk a few hours when the sky darkened. A storm had been predicted but we knew we had plenty of time to get to the Marina. Light rain started as we talked to the loopers who had gathered. Eventually everyone dispersed to their boats or to dinner. We walked upstairs for dinner in the Restaurant. The second story was all glass windows with a view to the bay and was so pretty. We got drinks and ordered some food when all of a sudden it started to dump rain, then howl wind. The water rippled and the building whistled and it was a bit freaky. THEN, anyone who had an iPhone got an alert about a tornado warning. Everyone paused as alarms blasted through the restaurant. We watched from the window wondering if our bimini’s where going to tear and if the lines would hold. There was nothing we could do at this point but watch and wait. Lightening flashing and thunder crashing like it was going to blow the windows out. We ate, prayed the boat was ok, and when it let up we ventured to the boat. It was where we left it Thank God! Right across the bay a EF 1 tornado was confirmed. These East Coast storms are no joke!! This was the second storm we had been in and this one shook us good. The boat had a small leak but other then that, it did fine. We are starting to trust AQUAMAN!
Andy and I are getting into a groove. The travel days have their own rhythm. The marina days have their own rhythm. We are working together well and have our jobs and checklists now and it flows really well. Most dockhands complement us on our smooth docking. This life is feeling really comfortable. We seem to have a bunch of travel days, then we sit still for a bunch of days. I really am enjoying the pace.
Synchronicity:
If you read my last post you should remember me talking about a boat we have been traveling with called Miss Norma. I mentioning that they had written a book called Driving Mrs Norma. If you don’t, go back and read the last few blogs. I went to bed with the book after the storm. I was all comfy in my cabin, book in hand. I started reading and the chapter I just happened to be on was about their experience taking Miss Norma on the Gerald Ford Aircraft Carrier for a tour. They described in detail the Commander of the ship meeting them and giving Miss Norma a long tour around the ship. I was reading it and I began to weep. The commander happened to be my adopted brother Rick McCormic!! My brother had these best friends in high school, identical twins Rick and Russ McCormick. They spent time living at our home and my parents nurtured them and become surrogate parents to these boys during their high school years. They both ended up going to the Naval Academy and both became fighter pilots. They are career Navy pilots. Rick became Commander of the Gerald Ford. This is the Navy’s brand new completely redesigned Aircraft Carrier. What were the chances. To make it even more strange, what were the chances I read THAT chapter in THAT exact spot. The next morning I went to tell Ramie and Tim on Miss Norma. They screamed and couldn’t believe it. I decided, since we had a few days left hanging in Norfolk waiting out weather, that I would try to reach Rick and try to get us all together. It happened. Man oh man, I was so thrilled to see him. Tim and Ramie brought him a signed copy of the book and read from the chapter mentioning his kindness. Tears in his eyes and I felt so grateful for facilitating this chance meeting. Life is so good!!!
Andy, Rick, and Me!
Tim, Rick, Ramie
All of us! Man am I short!
We spent a few days in Norfolk wait out weather before heading on the next leg of this trip: The Chesapeake. We have completed the ICW now and the Chesapeake has its own set of issues. We will be dodging crab pots, dealing with wind and waves and fog. People have warned us not to take the weather in The Chesapeake lightly.
First stop was an overnight in Deltaville MD.
May 15th
This was a lovely stop. We took the dingy down and took a cruise up the fingers of the river. We loved seeing all the riverfront homes with boat docks. The bird life is crazy amazing. Every Channel Marker post has a nest and they are hatching springtime babies. Mommy’s are on guard as the daddy birds bring food back. Their little heads peak over the nest as we go by curious about the noise. So awesome. Ospreys and Bald eagles are everywhere. Andy took a bike ride and had a great time visiting the other marinas. He went through the grounds of the Maritime Museum and the sculpture gardens. He also saw 3 deer.
Solomon’s Island, MD
Zanhiers Marina
May 16th-19th
Wonderful Marina
Fully functioning boat yard
We arrived here safely and tired. It was a long run today. When we left this morning the sun was in our eyes. We got out into the Petuxant River only to find a million crab pots exactly in our chosen path. They were everywhere. I was on the binoculars and on the front of the boat pointing and directing Andy. Just when I thought we were clear another group of them appeared as the sun glared in our eyes. Our conversations went like this:
“Pot!!”
“Where?”
“There!! Pointing to the pot!”
“Where??”
“There!! Pointing again to the pot!”
“I don’t know where you are pointing,” now screaming!!!
“My fingers are pointing right to them!!!!”
“Just like whale watching. Bouy at 1 o’clock.”
“I don’t know which way the clocks goes, remember I’m dyslexic AND left handed!”
It was FUN!!!!!!😂😂
We survived and didn’t hit one. Although one did go under the boat and I held my breath as I watched behind the boat waiting for it to pop back up. Andy threw the boat into neutral. It popped up! Thank God and I breathed a deep sigh. Those pots are totally annoying and they are placed in no order making it really hard to navigate a large boat through. I love crab but I’m thinking this might not be my favorite method of fishing. We were warned about the pots and everyone was right!
We crossed another state line into Maryland. The terrain has changed again. Its like the forest meets the ocean. The trees are tall and dense. It’s very green and forested. I have enjoyed watching the terrain change thru the states. This has been my favorite yet. The only downside to the greenery is the bugs and spiders. We wake to webs every morning. The spiders are everywhere. When I’m untying the lines now, I have gotten used to smacking and shaking them before I handle them. The spiders are all small and I am getting really brave. No bites to date! There are mosquitos and other annoying bugs but I have been running my essential oil diffuser almost everyday. We seem to have no issue with them. I’m using Eucalyptus, Lemongrass, Lavender, sometimes peppermint. The boat smells yummy and the bugs seem to stay away or at least not come inside. So far so good.
Solomon’s was a great stop. The marina was wonderful and we rode bikes all over. The homes are again historic and I found my perfect home along the river.
Can you just smell the lavender?? Incredible garden and restored home. Perfect!
Original house by Mr. Solomon who started an oyster packing plant here.
We planned on leaving after 3 days in Solomon Island but the winds have picked up. The Chesapeake can get a really big swell. We absolutely love it here. So we decided to move up to another marina where our friends are in and just chill out. There is a lap pool and the property is beautiful. We literally moved the boat .2 mile but the change of scenery is nice. I love just chillin in marinas. People are fun to watch, boats coming and going and meeting other transient boaters. It is a lifestyle that seems to fit me and Andy. Just as we get comfortable it’s time to go. Even if it means a short hop to another marina. Boaters are typically very friendly people and sharing stories makes for great nighttime conversation.
Spring Cove Marina
May 19-22nd
AQUAMAN in his element.
We enjoyed the pool. It’s was hot and I had some downtime to catch up the blog. I loved this marina.
We really had a chance to enjoy this place because we stayed put for almost a week. There are Maritime museums in almost every place we go, but this one had an original screwpile lighthouse. It was decorated in the furniture of the day. The museum had a great representation of old wood boats and the largest display of antique outboard motors we have ever seen. They had a few river otters that they were treating and I got to see them getting hand fed. So cute!
An original screwpile lighthouse. It was literally picked up and moved here for the museum. There is only 1 working screwpile lighthouse left in the Chesapeake. We will cruise by it on our way to Annapolis. Restored Chesapeake Oyster Boat. They sailed while dredging oysters until they were gone for ever.
What is it about chippy wood that I love so much??Lighthouse interior.Original Fresnel Lens. You see a red light you will bleed.(When you run in to the shoal). When you see a white light you are heading is good and you are in the channel.
This little guy really wanted to play.I always find myself in the kids secretion. Here I found a sand box that they let the kids dig in for sharks teeth. I will never be to big to dig in the sand, especially for treasures.This guy couldn’t eat fast enough making it tough to get a good photo.
The rivers are full of duck and geese. They are noisy and friendly. They are literally in every yard and swim thru the bays. The large sprawling lawns are full of geese. It’s spring time and there are babies everywhere. When I started seeing them I would grab my phone and snap photos. Ok enough! They are all cute. They are everywhere. They all look healthy and happy. It’s a novelty for me but now I am getting used to seeing them everywhere. Here are a few families.
Moving on from this place will be hard but when you see the list of places we still have to go, I had to realize this trip is perpetual motion. I get comfortable, clean the boat, do the laundry, spend some time touring and shopping and settle in. Then we pull the lines and we head off to a new city to start all over again. Some are quick overnighters and other places we will linger. This process of picking up and going can cause me great stress. Stress of the unknown. Stress of the ocean or river conditions. Will we have a good day on the water? Always in my thoughts. There is another component to this and that is friendship. Making friends is hard. Finding a compatible couple is even harder. When you click with someone, you know there will quickly be a day when your schedules don’t align and you separate. 😢
That day came. I miss my new friends Ramie and Tim. They are cool!! 👫
As we started the day it was cloudy and looked like it might rain. I said out loud “Mother earth is going to hold the rain for us” and she did. The clouds parted, the sun came though and we saw the most gorgeous sunrise.
We left this morning before the sun came up. As we pulled the lines my heart was pounding. In a good way, excited but also a bit of anxiety. I had decided that if I let fear in, later I was sure I would be disappointed with myself. I told Andy that we really needed to do this thing called “The Dismal Swamp.” It was always our intention but as we got close to it, I got a bit freaked out by the “stories.” People have reported issues with floating logs that they hit and had bent their props, there was a report about an uncooperative dredge operator and very shallow water. It is one of the routes on the Great Loop, but there is another way to go to avoid going here. I was totally on the fence. We have a rule on this trip. Actually it was something we learned from others doing this trip as a couple and we adopted it. It is simply that BOTH of us have to be in agreement about everything. If one person is hesitant at all then you don’t go. So far me and Andy are doing well with all the planning and decisions along the way. This was the first time that’s I vacillated.
We woke at dawn because the first lock opened at 8:30. It was 15 miles from where we were and we needed to make that opening. The next opening wasn’t until 11, so we did not want to miss the first opening. We made it right on time. We also had the privilege of traveling with our new friend Ramie and Tim on Miss Norma. They were in front of us all day leading the charge. The fact that we knew they had done this before gave me just the right amount of comfort and I relaxed.
Hundreds of Dragonfly’s all day. The spiritual meaning is: To bring more lightness and Joy into your life. It symbolized change and transformation, adaptability. It’s a symbol to always reflect your light so others can see you shine. Seems very fitting as I am learning to embrace this new life of adventure. I am learning to let go of my fear and be in the moment. Learning to be joyful and not fearful.The water was glass flat and reflective. Gorgeous!I waved at this guy, then realized it was a manequin. Hilarious. I thought he was being rude.
We reached the first lock right on time. We followed Miss Norma in and hooked the lines with the lockmasters help and instruction. This is our First lock!! There will be many locks on this trip so this a was our “start” and it was easy! Again, another fear checked off the long list of fears. I know the locks will all be different along the loop but I feel accomplished! The Lockmaster couldn’t have been nicer.
This canal goes along for miles and you cannot travel faster then 4-5 knots. We cracked up watching the cars wizzing by along the road through the trees next to the canal and even a jogger who ran faster then we could travel. It was SLOW!! It felt very much like a jungle cruise at an amusement park. I felt like someone was playing a soundtrack of chirping birds and russeling leaves from the trees. I smelt the most delious smells all day from the blooming jasmine and honeysuckle, like someone was running an essential oil diffuser under my nose. Here we were in a “Swamp” but it sure didn’t smell swampy.
The wildlife was incredible. We saw turtles all along the way, big and small on the tree braches at the edge of the riverbanks. I saw a snake slither across the water and up into the bank. I saw geese and ducks. I heard birds all day but never saw them. The chirps were beautiful and I wish I could identify what kid of bird made such music.
The reflection on the water shows 2 turtles. The water was glass all day. A bit muddy but glassy none the less.
The vegetation was also amazing. Lily pads and lush green forest of trees. I felt like Tom Sawyer might emerge at any time. I love this day! I didn’t put the camera down and I wish this post could be a scratch and sniff for you to get the fragrance I had all day. The flowers must be blooming now as it is spring time. I bet if had done this in July it might now smell the same.
The banks were full of blooming jasmine
I saw this “brown thing” from a distance along the side of the river. As we got close I realized it was a cow. Just then Tim called us on the radio to announce “COW.” As we approached I could see something was really wrong with this cow. I thought “something is wrong with its butt!” Then I noticed its sides contracting. I realized she was giving birth and what I saw coming out of her butt was a calf. I wish we could have stopped but that wasn’t possible. I blew up my picture and confirmed what I had predicted. Ramie and I both got photos of this little miracle happening at the river edge. I just hoped someone would come along so as the calf dropped it would drown in the water. I will always wonder if it was ok. We told others that night about the day and the expressions were hilarious. “A cow having a cow in the dismal swamp, now I have heard it all!”
Poor mama. I wanted to help and all I hoped was that someone was close enough to get the baby if it fell into the water. I hope it didn’t drown. I will never know.
We had a little delay at the last lock, even though we went under 5 knots. We idled and we were fine until the scheduled time. The lockmaster here was hilarious and played a coach shell for us. It felt very ceremonious to me as this day had been so epic and we mastered some firsts.
This guy came right to me and gave me a big lick on my hand. He wanted to jump on the boat but his collar was stopping him. He was sweet. I miss having a dog!!
This nice man played the conch shell and then opened the last lock. I really was thankful for this little act and it was a great way to exit this magic place. He asked “How was your day?” I responded with “Epic” He said back , “Yes, this placed was misnamed!” He told us that he has been either working at the local bridges or a lock all his life. He has worked this lock for 24 years and all that time having different boats call him he had never seen a boat named Aquaman
We left the swamp and headed to Norfolk. It was just a few miles ahead. The contrast from the swamp to downtown Norfolk was uncanny. We were suddenly in Navy territory and industry. The Navy ship yards with all the metal and construction was a true dicodomy from the scenery of this day. I have to admit, I was a bit relieved that we survived. As I mentioned I had been nervous as we started. Those nerves went away immediately because I was so taken by the beauty. As we approached the city I felt excited and ready for some civization. I felt emotional as we saw the Waterside Marina. This was where the AGLCA Rendezvous had been last May. We attended and made the decision that we wanted to do this trip exactly a year ago. It felt so surreal to be pulling into this town a year later. In our boat!
When we got to Norfolk and docked the boat, I began to think back on this last year. So much happened. It was unlike any other year in my life. I decided to just write it out to review. As I began to write, the list got longer and longer. I thought to myself that we truely seized the year. Not the day, but the year. It’s hard to believe all that has changed for us. One thing is true. We are smiling a lot, we are connected like never before, we are letting go, we are learning to happy with less, we are enjoying the moment and we are HAPPY! Plus we are meeting cool new people along the way.
A little history on The Dismal Swamp:
This area was first surveyed by Colonel William Bird in 1728. He suggested draining the swamp and digging a north south canal thru it to connect the waters of Chesapeake Bay Virginia and the Albemarle sound in North Carolina. In 1763 George Washington joined several other prominent Virginians and North Carolinians to form a syndicate know as the Dismal Swamp Land Company. This group hoped to drain the swamp, harvest the trees and use the land for farming. The swamp was part of the Underground Railroad for the slaves seeking freedom in the north. It was tretorous with many snakes and wild animals that were abundant. The canal was hand dug by slave labor and opened to navigation in 1805 after 12 years of back breaking work in horrible conditions. Today us pleasure boaters get the chance to navigate this canal as part of our route on the ICW. These large carved granite pilars are original mile markers from George Washingtons day placed along the route.
From May 2018 — May 2019: This list is for my notes about this last year. A reflection and it is all blogged in great detail as we went.
* After the Rendezvous 2018, where I decided I could do this trip. We rented a car and drive the ICW all the way to Miami. Over 1000 miles. Stopping in towns like St. Augustine, Vero Beach,
* We flew to Martinique and cruised that area on a 65’ catamaran for a week with a small group of strangers.
* We returned to Miami and drove to Key West to explore for a few days. We stayed at The Perry Hotel, which I loved!!
* In June Andy had his second knee replacement. That was fun. NOT!
* I started cleaned out the house and closet by closet I purged and sold, gave away or packed up what I wanted to keep. This took months and was little by little. Overwhelming to say the least.
* In September, 8 weeks after his knee replacement, we went to Europe for 3 weeks. We started in Amsterdam to see my brother, then took the train to Hamburg Germany where we rode bikes and explored, then took the train to Copenhagen, then rented a car and drove to Sweden where we visited Art and Analysa, Andys older and wiser cousin (He had admired home as he grew up) who lived in a small coastal town called Mole. Then we flew to Stockholm for 4 days before flying home. We did all that just 8 weeks after Andys surgery!! He did great!!
* We listed the house for sale in Sept before our Europe trip. Big decision. We decided to sell everything and just go!!! (It didn’t sell real quick, but we left it empty and trusted it would all worth out!)
* The day after Thanksgiving we took our final trip of stuff to the boat. The Jeep was loaded!! We said goodbye to the dock mates of the last 11 years, we shed a lot of tears and hugged and when we pulled away the next morning I balled all the way out of the harbor. We headed to Mexico. The boat would be loaded onto the freighter from Ensenada. We had a lovely 3 day cruise down the coast and stayed at The Coral. We spent 7 days waiting for “our ship to come in!” I had lots of tacos and margaritas.
* We made our way back to Santa Clarita (Mexican Uber across the boarder) and said goodbyes to family and friends for the next week. Then we took off to drive across the country, car loaded up and we had a blast stopping all along the way.
* The boat was delivered to Port Everglades (Fort Lauterdale) Dec 23rd. It was AWESOME, SCARY, SURREAL AND EMOTIONAL. We spent days cleaning, unpacking and provisioning. The blog has all this ordeal written in great detail.
* Jan 7 we headed off to the Bahamas. We spent 2 months there. We returned middle of March. Again, all blogged in great detail.
* March 13th we flew homes for 2 weeks. We caught up with family and friends. We had friends gather to hear all about this journey and catch up with us. We had Dr. appointments and ate tons of comforts from our home town. It was much needed for this mama. I spent time hugging and cuddling the kids and dogs.
* We flew back to Fort Lauderdale and got ready to start the loop. We spent days shopping, getting fuel and an oil change and whatever we could think of.
* April 3rd we left our comfortable dock at a private home that had safely housed AQUAMAN while we went home. We started our “Loop”. It is also the exact same day our house closed escrow. It was not planned but totally synchronicity. I cried as we set off. Out of disbelief this was about to happen and totally thrilled.
* Today May 12th, we pulled into Norfolk. A year after deciding to do this crazy trip, ship the boat, sell everything we own. Cut N Run!! Totally surreal.
* We have traveled over 1000 miles so far, 5 states, and are in Norfolk VA. We need a few days to chill before part 2 of this adventure continues. The next section is the Chesapeake. We are mapping out our stops. We plan on a few weeks at least before getting to NY.
OK!!!! No more foolin around. We gotta get places. When you go 7-10 knots (that’s almost the same as mph), you don’t get very far in a day. Some people could run next to our boat for 50 miles (Mike Knox) and arrive at the same time. Think of it this way. A days travel for us, which is usually around 40-70 miles with an average of 50 miles a day, in a car you could go the whole distance in an hour. It’s like driving from Santa Clarita to Oxnard, which was 51 miles, but it would take 4-5 hours to get there. Ya!! It’s the slow boat to China. Thankfully we are not going on this boat to China, but you get the picture.
The scenery is just georgous. We are in awe!This is a swing bridge that opened for us once we called.Always amazes us the mechanisms and that they still operate today.
We have areas that we have to go idle with no wake that have homes and docks. We have bridges to get under. Some bridges we have to wait for openings. We are navigating very shallow waters and have to watch the whole time. No eyes off the water AT ALL!!! There are so many obstacles, hazards, buoys, and a zillion crab pot floats. Cut the corner of the channel marker too close and you will run over crab pots. There are lots of pleasure boats with GO-FAST motors that throw us around in their wakes. We wake people also but that’s just the way it goes. We cannot ever get the boat over 9-10 knots in the inter coastal because things happen too fast. It’s supposed to be a cruise anyway. Sit back, radio on, chillin in my chair. I WISH!!! Although there are moments of that. I am the First Admiral-Stewardess-Line and Fender controller-Dockhand Coordinator-Radio Controller. When we pull into a marina, even if we only traveled a few hours, we are ready to relax.
The bird life is so prolific. Lots of Bald Eagles and Osprey.This is a fellow looper coming behind us thru a bridge opening.
The last 3 days have been travel days. We want to get up North soon. Andy really wants to get to the Cheasepeake and spend a bunch of time. There is so much to explore and we won’t even make a dent. It’s a fine line between getting there too early and it being cold, and waiting too long and needing to make our way to NY. The Erie Canal opens June 1st. (It’s already May 5th) We are trying not to be rushed, but we are. I am not sure why. I would be moving so much slower, but I am “along for the ride and I am not the Captain.” It’s all part of this game. My only disappointment this far in this trip has been a lack of girls. I have made a few connections, but we are all moving at our own paces. Some are way ahead and some way behind. You also don’t want to go on someone else’s trip and schedule. BUT, I would LOVE a buddy boat. My loneliness is palpable. Thank God I have a phone and once in awhile I get a good long talk with someone.
The scenery has been incredible along the way. I had just finished reading “Where the Crawdads Sing.” As we traveled thru the marshlands in Georgia I expected to see her on her boat coming around the bend. It was so vivid and the bird life was just incredible. We have seen so many Osprey flying around, catching fish in front of us and returning to nests high up in the trees to feed the babies. We have seen so many bald eagles, and all kinds of water birds all over the shorelines. It is the Nature Chanel right in front of us. This is one of the best things about this trip, and we are trying to savor each encounter. Plus the dolphins. We see them all the time. They are so different here because we see 1 or 2 and they aren’t really playful. They appear and dive down and then disappear. Trust me, I LOOK and always say, “come back and play.” We had one play in our wake only once. (I posted that video). Any dolphin appearance is welcome and appreciated.
This has been our daily route for the last week:
May 2nd. Myrtle Beach At Barefoot Marina
This was a stop over. Nice bike ride to dinner. Can you get a DUI on a bike? I almost got hit by a car with my dumb ass riding without a helmet. 🚑 (It messes up my hair!)
A view from across the bridge. I just love this boat of ours!Riding over the bridge to dinner.The best hush puppies ever!
May 3rd Southport at Southport Marina.
This was another old town, with old stuff, and old houses. I did enjoy the town and again, we rode bikes all over and I didn’t die again! Thank you Jesus! We enjoyed the marina with fellow loopers. The marina hosted a nightly lecture by a guy who has done the ICW several times in a vintage sailboat. He was a retired Navy meteorologist. He talked about the weather and also areas of concern on the ICW from Southport to Norfolk Virginia. He gave us all a packet of color glossys to have on the helm to follow along. Honestly, it was a bit anxiety ridden with all the information. OY VEY!! Information is power but I think I prefer ignorance.
Don’t even ask, I cannot read any of this. THANK GOD Andy can! OMG!!!! What the hell is he saying?? I need a drink.We all got a color print out of all the spots to watch. Look at this crazy turn Shoal Ahead RED BAD Unbelievable!!
Another golf cart town. Not sure it’s on the list yet but it does check this box.
Here is a bunch of homes that date back to the 1800. Some said even earlier. Coming from California, we don’t have a lot of history. It all started on these East Coast Shores. It is very cool and I can only imagine what these people went thru.
May 4th and 5th Harbor Village Marina
This was basically a housing development with a marina. It was secure and clean.
The marina was surrounded by beautiful large custom homes in the million dollar range. We did not plan on a 2 day stop here but we had a short wind/rain event. I find these “stuck” days are exactly what I need. I get a chance to organize (I am that crazy person who loves to tidy up and clean). I put on a pot of split pea soup and cornbread, I chatted on the phone with some friends and relaxed. It was a wonderful respite day.
Big homes all around us. The marina was very nice and a calm place to wait out some wind.
On another note, We have been traveling with the cutest little Ranger Tug Boat. It’s bright red and makes you smile every time you see it. I started chatting with Ramie and Tim, the owners. Turns out they are best selling authors and have quite the story. I invited them to share my soup and hear their story. It started with a simple question. “How did your boat get its name, Miss Norma?” That lead to, “Its a long story.” We spent a few hours listening to their account of this story and I was blown away. I immediately bought the book on my iPad and devoured it as we travelled the next day. Look it up and read this very heartfelt story about a dying woman’s last days and the beautiful way she choose to live those last days. Kudos to Tim and Ramie, who graciously gave of themselves to make this happen. I am forever changed by it and I know its not possible for everyone to get so lucky. It does give you pause though, as you read it, because it makes you realize that people have options at the end of their life and how they want It to be. If more people chose to live without fear, think of the possibilities. There is a movie in the works.
This little green tree frog asttached himself to Miss Norma and stayed all day. We had a beautiful spider web that went from the dock to our back swim step. The morning we left I felt so bad to disturb it. I said a little prayer and asked him to forgive me for disrupting his house. We pulled away and I was tending to the lines and fenders. A VERY LARGE Spider crawled across my hand as I was wrapping my lines. I screamed and shook my hand and the spider went somewhere. I have no idea where. I ran inside and closed the back cockpit door. I’m sorry, but I HATE spiders.
May 6th Beaufort NC City docks
We pulled into ANOTHER historic town. They are all starting to look the same. Boardwalks with shops and restaurants. The Marina was central and awesome. We were only staying a night. We really needed a West Marina stop. The Marina had loaner cars. Instead of walking the town we took the “car” and went to West Marine, about 8 miles away. This errand was made important after Tim pointed out that our “fender balls where not big enough!” We bought some balls, but they are too small for the locks. Instead of chillin, we took this clunker to West Marine and bought “bigger balls!” I know we will thank Tim later.
Do not look a gift horse in the mouth. We safely got there and back. Even though it rattled, squeaked and barely stopped.This thing had seen better days!!
May7th. Next up was River Dunes Marina NC
Our new Friends Ramie and Tim suggested this marina. They had been there before and described a very resort-ish beautiful place. I’m in!!! We pulled into the marina and noticed beautiful homes that looked like they had built in the period style with real gas lanterns and big porches. We checked in and they offered us a dinner reservation. I guess the restaurant is only open occasionally. Of course I said yes but didn’t ask anything about the menu, thinking it was a restaurant. Andy put on a pair of pants (he really loves me!) and we showed up to find they offered 2 things. A ribeye steak or soft shell crabs. Andy does not eat red meat and he is not a fan of this strange way to eat a crab, shell and all. He was a good sport and picked at it and we shared a nice bottle of Pinot. The clubhouse was gorgeous and just exactly the way I would decorate with chippy wood and vintage nautical accessories. There was a nice pool and hot tub. Andy went for a paddle and a bike ride, then we went to see the pool and take a dip. (My feet dipped). This place would be a fantastic place to have a large looper group because of the wonderful clubhouse to play games or have drinks and chat. We are headed out tomorrow morning to Belhaven. This may be a stop for a few days. Time to sit still and enjoy this town and catch our breath, grocery shop and meet up with loopers. We are starting to gather at each marina and Belhaven is one of the places people stay and coordinate routes for the Dismal Swamp. The Dismal Swamp is a very historic narrow cut that is notoriously shallow and can be problematic. We are going! If we don’t we will be sorry in the further. We will wait for the perfect day and go for it!
Just one area of this stunning clubhouse.
Aquaman and Miss Norma nose to nose. PERSPECTIVE!! I am in love with this boat. It puts a smile on your face, just like when I drove my Mini Cooper.
Belhaven NC May 8th
We are starting to meet cool people. We all seem to pull into the same marina about midday. It is a total trip. I was totally looking forward to this place and wanted to stay awhile. Well guess what, NOT!!!!!! We had the afternoon and we explored on our bikes. We had one of the BEST meal of our lives at a local place called the Silver Spoon. It was spectacular!! Ramie and Tim were waiting to go here to celebrate Ramies birthday back in March. I have to say, It was worth the wait. Unbelievable!
We planned on a rest stop here but instead we are trudging on the next morning. WHY?? BUGS!!!!! OMG!!!!! We left at the crack of dawn AFTER we hosed off as many as we could. We woke up to this horror and I was so focused on getting them off the boat and us on our way, that I didn’t get a single picture. I didn’t freak, I breathed deep, put on full leggings and long sleeves to avoid as many bites as possible before going outside to get the lines and get THE FUCK OUT!! We thankfully had smooth glassy water today and we saw fellow loopers on NEBO and we talked. “Who’s going where, what’s your plan?” This for me is EXACTLY what I signed up for. I am experiencing life every single day. The good, the spectacular, the bugs, the water, the new friends, the new places and mostly I feel so alive. Andy and I are having the time of our lives. We have moments of total discomfort but these moments pass. The next emotion is usually bliss. The daily changes, and the struggles are really awesome. Mostly, I am thankful for all of you who are engaged and taking this journey with us. I encourage anyone to chuck it all and GO!!! Man it’s been fun. We have traveled around 800 miles of our 6000. So much more to come.
Today as we traveled to the next spot THIS happened. No regard to our “pleasure craft comfort” as they sped by and thrashed us around. It is all about the unexpected and it all surreal!
Harborwalk Marina. Great marina in a nice calm bay.
Aren’t we cute in our matching hats. I found a store who embroidered and we got new hats. Loving my AQUAMAN Aqua hat! Ignore the wacky hair. Hats are a good way to hide the roots and tame the curls.
Today we left Charleston for Georgetown. Andy made the decision to travel outside today, in the ocean, vs. taking the ICW. We had been warned that there is a spot that was a real trouble spot at low tide. The area is called McClellanville and is a notorious spot for running aground because of the shallows. Thankfully we have friends ahead of us and we totally appreaciate all the heads ups and cautions. (Thank you Done Diggin) Andy looked at the tide tables and the time we would be approaching that area, sure enough it was right at the worst possible time. Decision made. We also thought it would be good for the boat to open up the motors. We have been running at near idle (for us) and the RPMs at around 1500. We took off and as we got close to the channel inlet it got bouncy. I thought to myself , “Oh shit, we have hours of this! Ok Brerathe. It’s nothing your not used to. We have been in flat glass rivers so the motion of the ocean is just what you haven’t seen in awhile. You got this girl.” Well, it wasn’t a bad 5 hours but it wasn’t wonderful either. Andy is the best captain. He drove the boat into the swells and made the route as comfortable as possible. When we arrived in Georgetown he was pretty hammered. He is my hero.
Georgetown is a wonderful little town. It is the 3rd oldest founded cities in America. It is rich in history and in the height of its day had a larger population of slaves then whites. It produced Indigo then rice then steel and paper. International Paper has the largest paper mill in the world here. Once we were settled in we went to stretch our legs and walk the waterfront boardwalk. Very cute town with a main street of old buildings, factories turned boutiques and restaurants. We found a spot to get a drink and decompress. A fellow looper was in the Marina and we bumped into them. Later we shared a lovely dinner together at the River Room. It was so nice to have some company. They left the next morning. We decided to spend another night.
Old brick building line Main Street. This was the Rice Museum. Originally a hardware store. It has an Iron facadeThere is a lot of ship history here as well. This was outside the Maritime museum.
Fun boardwalk lined with restaurants and locals getting a beer.
The next day we did a little boat cleaning and laundry. Then we rode our bikes to the local Piggly Wiggly for some basics, bread, coffee creamer, peanut butter. I really need groceries but we are going out almost every night. New towns and new places to explore. We want to see everything. The best way to see these towns is on our bikes. We can cover so much more ground. I have to try really hard to follow my very nimble, maneuverable mountain bike riding man. I am on an upright beach cruiser style bike with a basket that does not maneuver the same. I do cuss!! I can’t help myself. Andy pops up curbs and winds his way around obstacles. I’m behind him yelling “slow down, oh shit, oh shit!! I am going to get killed!!! Hold on!!” It’s hilarious really! I prefer a nice bike path. The streets of these old towns are rough with pot holes and gravel. I am WAY better then when we started this trip. Our bikes are our main mode of transportation. We ride them almost everyday. I have to laugh at myself and what a totally uncoordinated fool I am. I am getting more confidant as we go. Andy told me last night, after I almost got hit for like to 10th time, “Look, YOU are responsible for whatever and wherever you go on YOUR bike. Go where you are comfortable.” OK boss man, I got the message. Now if I can just keep the F-Bombs to a minimum. Everyone has goals!
Today’s ride was a tour of old homes. Huge plantations that I am sure where mansions of the day. Several homes had been restored, some where left to neglect. Some were getting modernized. Anyone who knows me, knows I LOVE old stuff. Vintage, beat up, chippy wood, rusty metal, old doors and windows. I dreamt about taking one of these old houses and restoring it. How fun would that be!! So up my alley! Andy would never, so for now its just a fantasy. I can totally appreciate the labor of love it took to get the home livable. I also think about all the lives and stories under those roofs. I can feel the energy in my cells. I can picture the white, privileged women and the black servants, the men who went out to the factories and came home to a hot cooked meal and a pretty wife. Kids running around the yards yelling and screaming. History. These homes have history. I had a brand new home build by a corporation like a cookie cutter without character. I never LOVED that house and knew it was a temporary spot to lay my head while we planned this adventure. My next home must have character and a story. AND good energy!!
Just one example of a restored home.
We saw all the shrimp boats coming in and we found them as we rode today. The shrimp was fresh off the boat and huge!!! We stumbled upon this Egret standing outside the shrimp store waiting for a handout. As we approached the owner/salty sailor grabbed some shrimp and fed him for us to watch. No wonder he hangs out. Smart bird!
Best freshest shrimp ever!
We decided to cook some local food tonight!
Just kidding. Who would I be fooling anyway! I don’t even have a pot big enough for those greens. In the mean time, I will keep ordering them cuz they are GOOD!!!! Bad picture of the turtles. The yellow umbrella reflected off the water. There were a bunch of them, along with the little fellow below. My first Gator sighting!
Georgetown needs to be on your list if you ever find yourself in the area. One of my favorite stops so far!
Look at the shoreline and notice the mud banks!Are you sure there is enough water under the boat?
These last few legs have been concerns over tides, currents and shallow areas. It is NOT relaxing. I thought I’d read and chill. NOT!!!! We are both watching the charts, navigation and on the binoculars. But this is FUN!! Really it is. When we get where we are headed the relief and happiness is compounded by the adventure.
Stay in the blue, lots of red making this a very narrow channel. It is always is nerve wracking to go thru these areas. So far so good.
The sail boat behind us was stuck in the mud, they ran aground. As we got close we noticed they were not moving. They called us on the radio and asked us the “wake them.” We usually slow down so we DON’T wake the slower sailboats. Andy gunned it as we passed them and our boat threw a big wake. We watched and held our breath. Their boat bounced around and then was free!! YES!!! It was the first time our wake helped someone. They were so thankful. They called us on the radio and thanked us. Then they followed us for awhile. If that didn’t work they would have been stuck there until the tide lifted them I am hoping we got some karma points! 🙏🏻
The boat must stir up something in the water because these birds have been following us and dive bombing the water behind the boat. They are super noisy and fight with each other.
As we approached Beaufort we kept seeing military planes, helicopters and we noticed the large Marine base. After we got to the dock and settled in we kept hearing loud crashing and booms. These had to be sonic booms. We looked up and the Blue Angles were flying over. Thinking this was a fly by, we went back to settling in, but the noise kept happening and I kept going out to look. Turned out there was an air show happening and BOY did we get a show. They zoomed all over the sky doing stunts and acrobatics. They flew over so low that it shook everything. It was incredible. Right place at the right time.
Just one of the many helicopters that flew overhead
We had just one night here in this historic town. We (Andy mostly) are feeling the need to get some miles under the boat and closer to the Chesapeake, where we want to spend a bunch of time. I am feeling slightly sad to leave here because there is so much history. We talked to people who said they did the loop again, just because they couldn’t see it all. I am starting to understand why. It’s so hard to know how fast to go. I have realized we just cannot see every historic town up the East Coast. Being a California girl, I am blown away by all the old stuff. I have an urge to buy every old house, scrap of wood, old windows and columns, rusty metal. I’d love to collect it all. I just love it. The older the better. The problem with these small towns is that the rivers/waters are muddy and Andy cannot swim. I love all the historic old homes but these don’t seem to be towns we could live in with muddy rivers and no tropical fish.
April 29 Charelston City dock
We traveled the next morning to Charleston. Several boats left the marina with the sun. We woke up and noticed almost all the boats where gone. We said to each other “they must know something we don’t! Let’s go!” We untied and left. We knew we had a long motoring day ahead. I watched our fellow looper boats on my NEBO app and even messaged them throughout the trip about areas of concern. I felt such a sence of comfort knowing there were several boats ahead of us and one behind us. We traversed more skinny channels, all without issue. We are getting used to these skinny channels. Everyone arrived to Charleston and seems to all land in different marinas. Charelston has a lot of choices. Again, we could have stayed for many days but it was a quick overnight stop. We have been to this city before so we decided to just stay a night and enjoy a really nice dinner out and walk the city. I am having to remind myself that we are on a LONG journey and I would rather see small towns and places I haven’t been to explore. I always want to stay. I had a dream that I was holding onto a dock cleat as Andy was pulling away. I guess I will just suck it up and keep going. We have SOOOOO much to see. It is all awesome. We are in a constant state of motion.
We ate here with the kids when they were little. We decided to eat here again. It was the first place my picky eater son ate filet, and decided he was a steak eater. We still tease him about it. I thought I would be finishing his very expensive kids dinner but he ate it all. Great memory. Love you Jake!❤️
We pulled into Shelter Cover Marina and I told Andy, “I just may never leave this place!” It is gorgeous!!! The Marina was down a long river that from the map looked impassable by boat. We figured a large Marina had to be fine, otherwise it wouldn’t be there. We trudged ahead. The marina was awesome!! We got to our slip and we saw several restaurants at the docks and lots of people enjoying the beautiful day. First stop, lunch! We walk up the dock and found an outside table and a good menu. Every time we pull into a place like this, I get a little settled in, start meeting people and never want to leave. The good news for this stop was we were planning 4 nights here. We had friends coming. It is our first company on this trip. I was beyond excited (as my previous posts pointed out my loneliness). Andy was his best man and Mike was in our wedding 27 years ago and we hadn’t seen him or his wife in over 20+ years. They had moved to Atlanta GA. Life got busy and we didn’t stay connected. I was so excited to reconnect with them and have my first overnight guests. Andy had talked to Mike throughout the years but that’s not the same as a few days together. We spent 3 glorious days in Hilton Head riding bikes all over the Island and on the beach, we took a long paddle in the river, we visited, ate yummy food and BBQ one night. I loved having them. THANK YOU Mike and Crystal for taking the time to come see us. We loved Hilton Head! Definitely be returning one day. Shelter Cove Marina was a great spot!
Low tide leaving these oysters all uncovered on the shoreline.Mike and AndyCrystal and Mike in their happy place on Hilton HeadLook mom, no handsBeautiful sunsets over the marina.Good friends catching up.Bike riding on the beach
This bronze statue of Neptune is 12 ft high and it is the largest figurative sundial in the world. Super cool. Mr. AQUAMAN and Neptune.
We left Jekyll Island on Easter Sunday to Kilkenny. It is a stop on the way to Savanna Georgia. There isn’t a lot of other choices to stay along this route. It is too far to go all the way to Savanna and most people stop here overnight. We left early with the tides in our favor to get thru some tricky spots. Jekyll creek is one of them. They are currently dredging this area. We got through no problem. We didn’t see anything scary. We will be traveling some of the shallowest parts of the ICW in the next states. We have done our homework and are watching tide tables and navigation paths. Ok breathe. Ya’ll KNOW I am a nervous wreak!! (And I have to start talking like a southerner). We left early this morning with a high tide but the day was cold and windy. The storm had just passed but it hadn’t warmed up yet.
Jekyll creek dredging
Today is Easter Sunday. I shouldn’t have looked at facebook this day. As I watched all my friends and family pictures, all the gatherings, all the Easter baskets and feast, I started getting into a funk. We made it to the marina for our overnight. I was ready to tie up and chill. The day was windy and cold and I was feeling such mixed emotions and irritation. I was super happy we navigated those shallow cuts with no issue. I was feeling sad to be missing my kids and family today. My mother in law had been in the hospital and I was feeling sad for her suffering. I have always been there to care for her. I worried about her. I have been in constant contact but that didn’t help my helpless feeling. Today I was very lonely. To make my mood worse, we pulled up to this rickety old dock. We had to take a spot without power. That was no biggie. Andy went to check us in and pay for this pleasure. When he returned he announced that the restaurant (which I heard was good and was looking forward to) was closed. ARE YOU KIDDING ME!!!!!! OK BREATHE!!! So I mustered up some dinner, Again, no biggie. I poured a glass of wine and decided to go find some fellow loopers who were docked ahead of us. I recognized several boats. As I walked over I was swarmed by bugs. I don’t like flying objects around my face. I was swatting at my head and looking for an invitation into a boat for refuge and conversation on this lonely Easter Sunday. NO ONE appeared to be home, or rather maybe they were all held up in their boats avoiding the bugs. I wondered back to my boat, put my jammies on and climbed into bed with my iPad and loaded some YouTube. I cried a little. The reality now is that the boat is our home. We are moving a lot. Some places will be fantastic, some, not so much. It was just a stop over thank god. I know tomorrow will be better. I am learning to let these feelings come up, feel them, and then LET THAT SHIT GO!!!! Boy am I so blessed to be doing this. And, yes the mood lifted and we set off for Savanna as early as we could.
Andy’s take on the day:
He can care less about Easter Sunday and he thought the marina was quite pretty. He didn’t even think twice about it being a holiday until I reminded him. He was like “who cares?” He ate the yummy dinner I made and was happy. He went to take a walk and, Of course, found a bunch of men had gathered and he had hours of conversation. He didn’t notice 1 bug. Wow, did we have a different experience here.
This is the picture of this wonderful (not) place.
Notice the boards we were tied to, not cleats. I prayed they wouldn’t come off as the tide changed.
April 22nd-24th
Savanna Georgia
I was so happy to wake up early and get moving because the next town was Savanna Georgia. The land of Milk and Honey. No, actually Shrimp and Grits, and Pralines and Mint Julps! Sign me up!!
The next section we needed to get through on the way to Savanna is called Hells Gate. Who the hell named these spots?? A bunch of dudes I’m sure to scare the crap out of the girls who agree to do these passages. Well, It isn’t funny, and I think us girls need to rename them. How about “Pour your wine NOW and try not to Whine pass,” Or “Sit down and shut up cut.” They are really narrow and shallow cuts that are dredged to connect the ICW for boaters to get through.
We got through without a problem and I didn’t even freak. I probably wouldn’t have even noticed unless the navigation didn’t have the name of the canal in big bold letters.
It is very counter intuitive to drive our boat so close to the land. When we saw the red bouys 10-20 ft off the grassy shore, I questioned weather or not the bouy had drifted. How can that be true. OMG, it is nerve wracking to be so close to the land. We watch the depth, rather my eyes never come off the screen. So far so good, as we follow the charts and bouys and so far we have had no issue. Thank you sweet Jesus!
Are you serious???? Did the bouy drift here???? OMG!!!This red bouy was so close to the shore!!!Hello shoreline, about 20 feet from us.
We had a great motoring day today, unlike the day before. The wind was behind us and it was warm. We saw shallow but passable depths, even in the tricky sections. I am building my confidence and not as worried. It was a glorious way to pull into Savanna. We docked at Thunderbolt Marina. I was looking forward to fellow loopers pulling in throughout the day. This is one of the famous spots. I saw loopers pass us by, I saw other boats. No loopers joined us at this marina. I’m starting to wonder where they all are. We took an Uber into town and had a fantastic dinner at Cotton and Rye. Made up for last night.
Bonus was the delivery each morning. Honestly I don’t eat these things but I had to have 1. Instant sugar rush. We gave the second box away.
Georgia had some big plantations homes on the river. Here are just a few I saw. I could have taken 100 pictures of these homes. Large yards with old trees and big porches. Absolutely gorgeous homes!
I loved the incredible wildlife. SOOOO many birds, nests, babies peaking their little heads out of the nests. The mama birds flying above the boat as if showing off, or fending off their territory. We frequently spot dolphins. Usually just a few in small groups. Sometimes they play, sometimes they just swim on by. I love the nature here. I was watching for gators but didn’t see any. I am sure they saw us.
Maybe Paula Deans house????Bald EagleBald Eagle nest with a baby birdNarrow Narrow rivers that we have to traverse. It’s called the ICW but it looks more like a creek.
More baby birdsThe sunrises are amazing, when I catch them.
The Famous Pink House. We didn’t eat here. Maybe one day.Roof top bar at the Bohemian Hotel for sunset.
We only stayed a few nights here in Savanna because we had just been to this amazing city last May. We stayed in the Hamilton-Turner house, a famous old Mansion turned Bed and Breakfast. We saw the town then and didn’t feel the need to revisit everything. We ate at places we missed the first time (except the Pink house, darn the long pants thing!). It was again fun to approach the city by boat. This is really a fun way to experience these places.
It’s a 2 chart operation. I watch Aqua Maps and Andy watches his Garmin course. Sometimes they don’t agree. Mostly we follow Aqua Maps and it’s been good! Look at all these cautions!! We hit 4 ft of water at one point. 😬
Jekyll Island Georgia
April 17-20th
Today we crossed into Georgia from Florida. Unlike driving across the state lines, we didn’t have a sign to take a picture of saying “Welcome to Georgia!” Oh well. The maps didn’t even have a real designated line. As we passed over that line I knew it but couldn’t get a picture. We knew we had just crossed the state line and we were excited. New territory, bigger and more bugs (as I keep hearing about and not thrilled about). We arrived to our marina and tied up with relief. This was another navigation day that we had to be on our toes. Lots of shoaling (shallow water) and lots of turns and markers to find and follow. I am another set of eyes. I am sure most of my family think I’m sitting back drinking coffee as we travel. It couldn’t be further from the truth. I am like a jack-in-the-box. Up and down, running for things, on the binoculars, looking at navigation, looking for the bouys, getting the captain water, food, snacks, anything he needs. When we left Amelia Island, another looper boat was also leaving. We followed them out the narrow channel of this marina and we stayed behind them all the way. It was an unintentional buddy up. They continued on to St. Simon and we stopped at Jekyll. First thing we did after checking in was go the marina restaurant for lunch with a view and a bottle!!!
We had a great lunch here. Crab cakes, grits, shrimp salad and hush puppies!
Once we were fed and settled in we got the bikes out and went exploring. I absolutely LOVE a town with bike paths and lots of nature trails to explore. We rode on the beach and found the historic district with all the restored Mansions and club house. This is a picture of the Jekyll Island Club House turned into one of the Historic Hotels of America. I loved this ride and I didn’t whine at all!!! It’s a miracle I know!!
Look mom, no hands! Another flat beach to ride. So fun!!
Today we took the Marina curtesy golf cart and rode the whole island!!! We pretty much made it back as the battery hit “recharge.” We always push it to the limit. Kinda the way we live lately!! We went to the famous driftwood beach. Super cool spot. We cruised the whole island, found lunch and a fun little local market with really interesting products. I had to stop myself from buying tons of unique sauces and jelly’s.
This little guy better be careful. I almost stepped on him. He looked just like the sand.Me and my truely!
This is looking at St. Simons Island from driftwood beach.Andy’s driving another golf cart!More old stuff!
Lovin’ all the Spanish moss hanging from all the trees.
Here is a taste of the drive. It was so pretty and the weather couldn’t be better!!
As I am typing my blog sitting on the top deck of the boat in the shade, I saw a boat coming in. It looked familiar but all boats start looking the same after while. Except I knew this boat. As it approached I waited to see the name. Sure enough it was “Reflections.” I met this couple in Norfolk last May. I toured their boat (we were deciding to take our boat or get a new one) and I listened to them speak about the Chesapeake. They are platinum looper but have done the loop over and over, several times. She was sweet and encouraged me to go for it. Once they got tied up I walked down and introduced myself. This boating thing has really been an interesting thing. We meet people, say goodbye. Then a few days later see them again and have a drink. We are crossing paths with loopers. We are behind some and ahead of some. I have this yearning to buddy up. I can see though, that everyone has their own pace. I am not sure yet what ours is, but I do know (Mr. Scheer) I would like to slow it down a bit. When we get to a new town I want to explore it. An afternoon is not long enough. There is definitely a balance here. I think we will find our groove. One thing I can say for sure is that no matter what marina we are in, I am happy. I just love the activity of marinas. Boats coming in and out, people walking by. Looking at all the different types of boats and seeing people is just perfect. I am a social butterfly. I think I need to make a sign to hang that says “stop and talk.” I am loving this lifestyle, being on the move and exploring, or just hanging on the top deck in the sunshine drinking a bottle of wine. It rocks!!!! Plus my boat is more then comfortable. We have plenty of room. My bed is comfy and calling me every night. When it rains the pitter patter on the roof is so soothing. It doesn’t leak, at least not yet!! That is good. My kitchen is well stocked and I haven’t had a problem cooking in my camp style small space. We grill also. I am still learning how to make smaller portions for 2. I am still working on this because we don’t really have room for a lot of left overs. We have our bikes and I am getting used to that. I am getting stronger and starting to enjoy riding around towns. I wondered if I could handle this life, but I am WAY happier then I ever imagined.
Then this happened:
Today a storm was coming. We saw it on the radar. We knew it was going to be nasty. We doubled our lines, put things away, put covers on, and hunkered down. OMG!!!!! We saw it coming. The sky got black. Then, WHAM, the winds hit. The boat tossed and turned and slammed us into the dock, the waves had to be 4 ft or more. Our fenders protected us from the dock. I looked up top and noticed our dingy cover was lifting off. It’s a heavy custom made canvas cover and all I could think was “save the cover.” We went out and tried to get it free in the wind with thunder and lightening crashing over our heads. It was insane. We got soaked but we took the cover inside and removed our wet clothes. Then we watched and waited for it to pass. It did, we were fine. I haven’t been in anything as ferocious as this and it happened so fast. It continued to rain hard for a few hours. I will take that rain over that wind any day!! We have a few leaks. I’m not surprised with the amount of rain that came down so quickly. This storm hit the Florida Coast and all the way up through Georgia. It was Time for a drink.
Yikes!!Here is comes🌪🌧💨Huge waves behind the boat
Well, we experienced our first serious quick moving storm with tornado warnings and massive wind. Everything survived, including me. We HIDE inside today, all day long!!!!! This island will forever be called Jekyll and HIDE!!!
A homemade chicken pot pie helps comfort the soul
Our plans to leave today got changed because it is blowing like crazy. No rain but the wind is terrible and we are rockin and rollin. Having no agenda is a huge saving grace instead of being miserable and uncomfortable. We took the golf cart again today and went to see the Turtle Hospital. They have a pretty impressive operation. You can watch the turtles getting medical attention. They care for little hatchlings that don’t find their way out of the nest and sick or injured turtles.
Baby hatchling in rehab
This turtles shell was getting tended to.The little guy at the bottom was lookin right at me. “Let me out!”
The Island is packed full of people on Easter weekend. I saw kids and Easter egg hunts in the huge lawn in front of the historic hotel. I saw little girls in their Easter dresses and moms all dressed up. I am feeling a little sad. I remember those days. How fast does time go?? Another holiday we will be missing family (At least I will). I am praying the good Lord will calm the winds and let us move on tomorrow so I don’t sit around being sad and lonely on Easter Sunday. I am grateful for this journey but this is the hard part for me. Happy Easter Subday everyone. 🐣🐤🐰 We leave here for a 2 day journey to Savanna. I am ready for visitors. Who wants to come join us?
We left New Symrna Beach nice and early for one of our longest travel days yet to St. Augustine. I was beyond excited to arrive here by boat. We had stopped here last May after going to the Looper Rendezvous in Norfolk. This was the moment for me to decide if I was “In or Out” to do this crazy trip called The Great Loop. I needed to meet other “loopers” and see what this was all about. I remember one afternoon after a bunch of lectures, thinking how much fun this sounded. How it sounded like an experience of a lifetime. Different then a motor home trip where you can just pull over, this was going to take some planing and intelligence to figure out the waterways and tides, currents and navigation. I felt it was exactly the intellectual stimulation my husband needed. He was not that intellectually stimulated in his job and this seemed a great way to travel but would be very challenging. I said “I’m in!” Of course I’ve had tons of anxiety and fear because it isn’t like just getting in your car and taking off. This has taken TONS of planning. We decided to go “ALL IN” and sell everything, move onto the boat and call it home for awhile. We met lots of loopers that did just that, and they encouraged us. It’s been so freeing AND scary as hell. I am learning to trust my captain. I am learning how to go with the flow. I am learning how to “let go!” It is really hard. Everyday is new. I never know what’s next until we sit and plot/plan our next move. We get to a marina and we get comfortable. I LOVE marina life. When we get somewhere I never want to leave. I get comfortable. The nights before our planned departure I get a bit of anxiety. I am hoping as we continue, this goes away. All of our travel days have been wonderful. We have seen so much wildlife, beautiful homes, fellow boaters. It is wonderful. That fear of the unknown is exactly why we are doing this trip.
St Augustine is the coolest place. We are leaving tomorrow but I could stay another week. Me and the Captain have to agree. He said lets go, so we go! I am letting him take the charge. I am hoping he can slow down a bit as we go. It’s a bit like, take a step, drag Cindy. Andys perfect day usually involves 4 activities. He wants to do it all. The man had 2 knee replacements and can still outride anyone I know. I am working on building calluses on my butt as I am riding my bike more then I ever now. It is our main form of transportation, other then Uber. Today we rode to the lighthouse and beach. More then 10 miles!!
No shells, just clams and musclesJellyfish were all over the beachI climbed this last May. All 250 steps. This time I just took a picture.
I’m such a good sport. Isn’t my old lady bike cute!!
We walked the historic town of St. Agustine. We ate at Harrys for the best grits I have ever had in my entire life (picture below). We really enjoyed the city marina. It was really busy place with lots of activity. The marina was in downtown and was not gated so people walked the docks to see the boats. Lots of people stopped to chat. Lots of fellow loopers stopped here, everyone is friendly and it’s fun to discuss everyone’s routes, stops, towns, tides, navigation. Chatting with people about their life stories is really fun for me. I find it fascinating to ask what brought everyone to this point. What they did in their lives and where they are from. We are definitely some of the youngest people so far. Most loopers are retired at the normal retirement age. We are not the typical demographic. Everyone has something to offer and I just love these conversations. I am looking forward to meeting people as we travel.
Aquaman in the HarborBest damn grits of my life!!!! Need to learn how to cook them!This is one happy guy livin his dream.
I didn’t know this, but last Sunday was Palm Sunday (I am a bad Christian) and the marina was having a blessing of the fleet. We were getting stuff done on the boat and didn’t plan on sticking around for this. We were just about to leave to lunch when this happened!!!! Of course we stayed for the whole ceremony and our boat was blessed by the guy in white.
We felt privileged to be here for this. We got blessed. We walked into town after and found lunch and did some shopping. This was a good stop. I loved the busy marina.
Next stop will be a quick overnight at Amelia Island. We left at high tide and thought we had plotted out route to Amelia for the right tide. NOT!! We arrived at low tide and couldn’t get into the super narrow and shallow inlet to the marina. We drove past it for 30 minutes cruising super slow and then turned around and arrived an hour after low tide. The channel still looked terribly narrow but wider than before so we went for it. We called and told them we were coming in. 3 guys met us at the dock. We were fine but saw 2 foot under the boat coming in. Holy shit!!! Ok, We have been warned about the tides and this is not funny!!! Some places have an 8 foot tide. This is something to consider as we travel thru Georgia and the Carolinas. We checked into the marina and found they had a courtesy car. Yippee. We went to the closest Publix and I stocked up on stuff. I am always happy when the boats stocked up. Later Andy decided to Uber us to a really nice restaurant. We went on the app and it was a 20 minute wait for Uber. Turns out he is the only driver!! After dinner he picked us up also. Thank God he didn’t go home!! LOL We had a good day and felt really blessed. This was the first day we had navigation, narrow and shallow water and we had to be on our toes. I felt thrashed and a bit emotionally exhausted when we finally docked. All day we were watching our navigation and learning our limits while my mother in law was struggling with a serious health issue. I was on the phone with everyone and trying to be a second set of eyes on the charts. A few times we over very shallow water. It wasn’t really my best travel day. When we pulled into the marina I was super relieved and ready to chill.
Good overnight stop but not someplace to stay longerPassing our first barge Trying not to wake them and toss those rocks into the seaNarrow channel out of the marina this morning at high tide. It was 1/4 this width yesterday when we entered. Totally freaked me out! 2’ under the boat!!
Tomorrow we go. Jekyll Island. We will stay 3 nights because we have some weather coming at us. I cannot wait to explore this Island!