We survived the DEVILS BACKBONE ☠️


Today is the day to brave this channel called The Devils Backbone and the only way into Harbor Island Eleuthera.  We were told it was absolutely necessary.  Since we are so close we decided to come here.  The other choice was crossing to the Abacos because it was a really good ocean crossing day.  The weather prediction for this next week is not good for a crossing.  It is predicting high winds and big waves.  The Marinas are well protected from the wind so we will be just fine. We knew that coming here meant staying a week at least.  Trapped in paradise. Oh well!   Some days I am ready to head back home.  We are days away if we wanted to go straight back to Florida. I remind myself of all the work it took to get here.  All the sacrifice and all the planning.  Some days are hard and I am homesick.  I met a woman who told me it will take some time to get into the traveling groove.  She went thru it questioning “what the heck did I sign up for?”  She is right. I breathe thru those moments and they pass.  Thankfully.

The only way you get to Harbor Island is to hire a pilot/captain.  All boats, even the mega yahchts hire one.  They say the sand shifts and the coral heads will get ya, and they are not plotted on the charts correctly.  Neal met us at the marina, handed me a bag of warm Johnny Cakes  that his wife had just made, and tied his boat behind ours.  We set off and he instructed Andy were to go.  I looked behind at one point and saw the ferry coming up behind us and FLYING right past us.  Neal said it was fine but he caused a huge wake and left us in the dust.  Didn’t like that!  Totally strange, exciting, nerve wracking, but we got here safely and found our Marina Romora Bay.  We were greated by the dockhands and once tied up and secure we were offered a rum punch! Welcomed in style.

Welcome aboard Captain Neal
Pointing out the path and coral heads. He actually let Andy drive which was cool.
Neals ride back home
This is what the coral looks like, it seems obvious but  boats hit them all the time.

We had 2 marinas to choose from and they are both good choices.  We choose Ramora’s because it’s just a bit past the ferry dock and a bit less rolly according to the reviews.  It has a great pool and restaurant.  The other choice was Valentines.  Either place would have worked and we are all good with our choice.  We took the bikes down and road a bit and stopped to check out Valentines.  It did seem a bit more happening and had a nice restaurant and bar.  We got lunch and more rum punch.  This is were the dive shop is,  and Andy went to sign up for a dive.  I think we are going to like Harbor Island.  The homes all have a British influence and are just adorable.  This is also home to mega manson’s and celebrities.  It’s pretty layed back town so they must like that and it’s also not very accessible.



Romora’s marina has a nice pool that overlooks the ocean.  We went up for a dip and found a bunch of people in the pool.  PEOPLE!!!!!  I had a good time eaves dropping until one really friendly guy started asking us questions.  Where we were from, what boat was ours, etc….. (OMG, someone to talk to!!!!!).  Turns out the pool was full of crew from a few mega  yahats on the dock.  We had such fun chatting about crew life and cruising, their owners, what its like living on a boat full time.  The cook chatted about cooking and where she buys her food.  I had a great time.  My skin was totally pruned from sitting in the water.  I enjoyed talking to them.  What an interesting life they have.  One of the crew was married (cook and captain) and when we said “we had sold everything to live on the boat and travel”  her husband looked at her and said “we should do that one day.”   She started laughing and said  “honey, we don’t have anything, and we already live on a boat that’s not ours full time, what could be better??”  We all laughed.  Honestly the only thing they don’t have control of is where they go and when.  If the owner wants the boat in a place they go and for as long as he/she wants it there.  They said it can get really boring being somewhere too long but that comes with the territory.  I wondered if the owners were rude assholes, but both couples said they loved them and they treated them really well.  That made me fell happy for them.

Aquaman all tied up and happy
Another pretty quiet Marina. Us and megayacht.
View of the marina
Looking up to the pool area from our boat

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